Spain Steps into the Restaurant Spotlight

Between the current tapas iteration at Next and splashy debuts of Salero and Bom Bolla, Spanish cuisine is getting time in the spotlight.

One of the most popular revolving restaurants in the world, Next famously pivots its cuisine theme every few months, offering up entirely new dining experiences. The latest focuses on Spanish tapas, inspired largely by the chefs’ culinary expedition to Spain. Running through September 6, the tapas menu delves into the boisterous dining culture of Spain’s small plates, showcasing flavors of Jamon Iberico, octopus, patatas bravas, and tortilla Espanola in elevated techniques and interpretations.

While Next puts Spanish tapas squarely in a global spotlight, a couple other newcomers around town are hinging their menus on the vivacious flavors of Spain. Salero came first, debuting in the West Loop from the folks behind Wood. Basque country meets Restaurant Row, as chef Ashlee Aubin cooks up modern Spanish fare with aplomb. The seasonal menu currently contains lustrous dishes such as white asparagus a la plancha swimming in fennel emulsion and white asparagus soup with poached shrimp; tempura-fried Chesapeake Bay soft-shell crab enlivened with coconut-tomato sofrito; and a rich take on surf and turf via yellowfin tuna a la plancha adjoined by Jamon Iberico. The arroz con leche on the dessert menu nicely summarizes Salero’s penchant for the contemporary, a neoteric take on rice pudding in the form of a sweet rice cake with ginger-rhubarb consommé, nasturtium oil, ginger galleta, and tart rhubarb-Luxardo sorbet.

The newest addition to Chicago’s Spanish scene is Bom Bolla, a Cava bar from the esteemed team behind River North’s longstanding Pops for Champagne. Here, Spain’s drinking culture is front-and-center with a beverage menu chock full of vermouth on-tap, gin and tonics, and of course Cava aplenty, both by the glass and by the bottle. The food program is perfect for sharing, with much of the menu divvied into small plates like olives, charcuterie, cheese, pinxtos, and sandwiches both open-faced and composed. The eggplant baked in charcoal is a smoky, heady foray into Bom Bolla’s menu, as are the fried shishito peppers, as gloriously snackable as french fries. For slightly larger appetites, the lamb leg bocadillo (aka sandwich) is like a Spanish riff on a French dip, while the fried squid version provides a crisp dose of welcome salinity.

Next
953 W. Fulton Market, Chicago
(312) 226-0858
Website

Salero
621 W. Randolph Street, Chicago
(312) 466-1000
Website

Bom Bolla
1501 N. Milwaukee Avenue, Chicago
(773) 698-6601
Website