Hewn Revives American Baking Traditions

What’s old is new again at Hewn, an Evanston bakery culminating a three-year project to revive early 20th century bread traditions. Under the tutelage of owner Ellen King, a baker with a Master’s Degree in American History, the bakery has collaborated with a scientist, a farmer, and seed collectors in order to create loaves of bread as true to historical Midwestern roots as possible.

Naturally fermented, handmade breads are the bread and butter of Hewn, so naturally King wanted to take that ethos a step or two further by delving into American history and adapting those bygone sentiments into her repertoire. Specifically, King looked back roughly a century into Midwestern lore to uncover bread recipes that have since become defunct due to the omnipresence of genetically modified grains. Working with a whole team of impassioned bread-lovers, from scientists to seed savers, King and co. are looking to resurrect a bread recipe that will take Midwesterners back to the roots of heritage grains and artisanal baking practices.

Working with grain scientist Stephen Jones of Washington State University, Hewn discovered the grain variety most common to the Midwest a century ago. With this intel in hand, King reached out to Andy Hazzard of Hazzard Free Farm, who then contacted Seed Savers Exchange, all with the intent to acquire Heritage Wheat and Marquis Wheat, two Ukrainian varieties brought to the U.S. in the late-1800s. The grains went into the ground at Hazzard Free Farm in April 2015.

The wheat is expected to harvest mid-August this year, with potentially 20 pounds of grain. And Hewn is planning to celebrate the first milestone with a harvest party, featuring (hopefully) a loaf of bread that hasn’t been seen in the Midwest for the better part of 100 years.

Hewn
810 Dempster Street, Evanston
(847) 869-4396
Website