Citrus Makes a Splash on Winter Menus

By Matt Kirouac
Eduardo’s Enoteca

In terms of produce bounty, winter is a far cry from the peachy provisions outfitting farmers’ markets in the summer. But there’s one large ray of fresh hope in the form of citrus. January is prime citrus season, which means food and drink menus throughout Chicago are awash with orange, grapefruit, and more, each bite and sip offering a refreshing solace from the bitter reality of winter.

GT Fish & Oyster recently appointed a new pastry chef in Andrea Bonitatibus, and she’s wasting no time getting right to business with new desserts. One of her first creations uses orange cream cheese as a means of vivifying some carrot cake. Her neo take on this American classic includes flavors of pineapple, coconut ice cream, coconut tuile, and thyme.

Blood orange and grapefruit double up for a group-friendly punch at The Dawson. One of the new additions to the restaurant’s cocktail list is the Blue Collard Punch, a heady potable designed for four to six customers. It’s made with Hendrick’s gin, Clement Creole Shrub, blood orange green tea, grapefruit Oleo-Saccharum, Dead Rabbit Orinoco Bitters, and Prosecco.

Pie is the perfect vessel for citrusy satisfaction, and it’s practically raining lemons, limes, and oranges over at Hoosier Mama Pie Co. Try the outstanding interpretations of classics like key lime pie in gingersnap crust or mile-high lemon meringue pie along with other Hoosier standouts like the tangy lemon chess pie or the luscious and juicy orange cream pie in pecan-graham cracker crust.

Mandarin oranges step into the spotlight at Drumbar, where mixologist Alex Renshaw is stirring up a new drink called Far East Side. The quencher is made with Absolut vodka, Suze, pampelmousse, and housemade Mandarin orange juice.

Citrus season at rigorously seasonal Floriole Cafe & Bakery means customers can expect to dine on Meyer lemons, satsumas, and oranges in a variety of forms throughout winter. One of which is the blood orange salad strewn with shaved fennel, red onion, and olives.

By candying grapefruit for their Whiskey C. Negroni, Eduardo’s Enoteca takes much of the bitter sting out of grapefruit, imparting just a dash of citrus to their wintry drink. The rest of the libation contains whiskey, Campari, and sweet vermouth.

Orange and grapefruit serve to enliven one of Owen + Alchemy’s new “bowls” for the winter menu. Supremes of fresh citrons are nestled alongside cashew yogurt, coconut milk, banana, chia seed pudding, sesame brittle, and shredded coconut.

One of the less familiar types of citrus is yuzu, one equally deserving of your acidic adoration. You can give it a whirl at Parachute, where cranberry-yuzu curd adjoins pavlova “ambrosia” with quince and more candied citrus.

GT Fish & Oyster
531 N. Wells Street, Chicago
(312) 929-3501
Website

The Dawson
730 W. Grand Avenue, Chicago
(312) 243-8955
Website

Hoosier Mama Pie Co.
1618 1/2 Chicago Avenue, Chicago
(312) 243-4846
Website

Drumbar
201 E. Delaware Place, Chicago
(312) 933-4805
Website

Floriole Cafe & Bakery
1220 W. Webster Avenue, Chicago
(773) 883-1313
Website

Eduardo’s Enoteca
1212 N. Dearborn Street, Chicago
(312) 337-4490
Website

Owen + Alchemy
2355 N. Milwaukee Avenue, Chicago
(773) 227-3444
Website

Parachute
3500 N. Elston Avenue, Chicago
(773) 654-1460
Website