A Conversation with the Owner and Executive Chef of Deka
Welcome back. I hope you all had wonderful holidays. I had a very relaxing break, but I am excited for our new episodes to start! This week we visited Deka in Wheeling, Ada Street in West Town and J.P. Graziano in the West Loop.
I spoke with Alex Vaysman, the Owner of Deka, and Deka’s Executive Chef Michael Richie to learn more about their French-Russian menu. Here’s what they had to say:
Q: You and your father-in-law Igor Shtrambrand (who also owns Shtram’s Deli) opened Deka together. What made you want to do fine dining?
Owner Alex Vaysman: Because Igor was always in food business, all of our family conversations were about food and restaurants. The deli business is not the same as a restaurant, and when a spot opened near his deli, he immediately jumped at the opportunity to create a restaurant. There is a certain way people should dine – what some folks consider “proper way” – coursed out with a certain level of service. Deka is not a fine dining restaurant but we always try to exceed customer’s expectations. Deka is an American Brasserie and that’s very different for this area, a nod to Le Francais that put Wheeling’s Restaurant Row on the map. This location offers easy access to the restaurant, as it’s centrally located in Chicago’s suburbs. The concept was to take classical French cooking and bring it to the American market in a way that is comfortable, not stuffy, a little more casual, and relaxed. The food is best in class quality-wise and prepared with care. We are serving what our family considers upscale food that we would only eat on special occasions, but we bring it to customers every day and with reasonable pricing. Customers are often surprised at the level of food quality and taste. We serve what Igor calls a “Full Taste” menu. We do not offer salt or pepper with dishes (unless asked) because the dishes are seasoned to our Chef’s liking.
Q: You describe Deka as an upscale American brasserie but it has many French and Russian influences. Can you explain what diners can expect and give them some recommendations for can’t-miss dishes?
Owner Alex Vaysman: Being an American Brasserie we pride ourselves on very timely service, and we do this without compromising on quality. All of our dishes have been very carefully vetted and only make the menu after weeks of trial and taste testing (sometimes as free specials with current customers). Our Napoleon Bruschetta, Steak Tartare, and Helix Escargot are appetizers you absolutely must try. Some folks drive very long distances to taste our classic hot Borscht with veal tail, as it’s nothing like you’ve ever tasted before! Our bestselling entrees are Branzino, Chilean Sea Bass, Beef Tournedos, and of course the biggest draw is the Lava Stone Prime Fillet. The best meat you will ever taste. Ever. We also offer a very good selection of caviar that attracts a certain crowd that really appreciates the details of upscale cuisine. There is a proper way to appreciate caviar and we provide that.
Deka's Chilean Sea Bass
Q: You began your career at La Francaise under acclaimed Chef Jean Banchet. What was it like to work for Chef Banchet and how did working with him influence your cooking style today?
Chef Michael Richie: I first met Chef Banchet when I was still studying at Culinary Institute of America in New York, having gotten my prior degree from Florida Culinary Institute. I pulled up to the restaurant my first day and saw back-of-house folks cleaning and scrubbing the dumpster. That almost made me want to turn around. To say that the kitchen was spotless and organized like I’ve never seen a kitchen organized before is to not say anything. These guys were Gods. Nothing was thrown away and everything down to the “cow’s eyebrows” found its use in the kitchen and made it to the menu in one form or another. Chef ran a classical-style French kitchen with an enormous amount of mise en place. Le Francaise was an epitome of a scratch kitchen and that is one of the things I brought to Deka. Everything was made there, and all was made same day. There was an army of back-of-house personnel, each masters of their unique skill. Stations, stations, stations. Lots of yelling and a very high stress environment. You can be peeling potatoes and when Chef walks into the kitchen, you feel it, and you know he is there. I am the Chef I am today because of Chef Banchet. I was very lucky to have experienced greatness very early in my career and that elevates you to a certain style of cooking and, most importantly, implants a level of pride in everything I put my hands on. I know I am continuing a certain unspoken tradition and my customers feel it. The best part of working with Igor and Alex (Vaysman) is that they we all are striving for the same goal. How can we wow our customers with very good, traditional cooking style and honest preparation in a restaurant world where some folks don’t even use plates to serve food anymore. People who worked for Chef Banchet often stop by Deka and we always have a good laugh remembering the “old times.” I have worked all over the world and when I started talking to Igor and Alex about the concept for Deka, in my mind, I was very happy to have been brought back to Wheeling where it all started for me. Deka is just one block away from the memories of Le Francaise!
Q: You offer so much more than just dining at Deka. Tell me about the art, the live music and, of course, why you decided to install the unexpected slot machines?
Owner Alex Vaysman: Dinner is not always the destination but a stop on the way to a destination. We wanted to change that a little and bring back some of the old world night-out experience. We have live music every Friday and love it when folks come in, eat, talk, and dance. And by the time they leave it’s close to midnight. Why not? Slot machines were another way to allow people to stay in longer and really make a night of it. Eat, enjoy music, gamble a little, communicate, and re-connect. Food sometimes brings people together. I have this box where I offer 10% off the bill to have everyone at the table place their cell phones in it. I leave the box at the table but do not come back with a key until their meal is done. You would not believe the response I’ve gotten. Fathers are talking to their sons and daughters, husbands are looking at their wives. They love it. Most of the folks don’t even ask for the 10% off. They just enjoy the closeness of the dining experience. Some restaurants are trying too hard to mimic certain places and styles. We have it easy. We deliver an original, authentic experience with large portions.
WTTW shooting restaurant footage at Deka
Q. We can’t talk about Deka without mentioning the extensive vodka collection you have. It’s one of the largest in Chicago and the largest on the North Shore with over 50 varieties. Can you highlight some of your best offerings?
Owner Alex Vaysman: Vodka is a staple of the Russian dining experience. We offer some of the best vodka in the world and my favorites are Purity, Russian Standard Gold, and Beluga Gold Line. Vodka is tasteless and odorless and pairs with everything. Because it’s a pure form of alcohol, we often enjoy it frozen and as shots, as opposed to mixing it in a cocktail. We have a house infusion that we perfected over the course of two years: Horseradish Vodka. People are crazy about it. Lots of vodka house cocktails are on the menu but I recommend trying a drink we call Political: pear vodka, Disarrono, simple syrup, and fresh lemon juice.
Vodka offerings at Deka
To all Check, Please! viewers out there, I hope you enjoy this episode with three exciting selections!
Cheers,
Catherine
